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dinahsmum
14-05-2006, 12:42 PM
Following a little bit of nagging - oh, pardon me, gentle reminders, from one or two, here is my flowering wisteria (I have another but that lives in a pot and has, so far, not obliged)
It still needs a day or two to be at its best, but it's getting there and the scent by the front door is lovely.
I am hoping it will put on quite a bit of growth this year and scramble further over the 'pergola thing'.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v393/Dinahsmum/DSC01380.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v393/Dinahsmum/DSC01381.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v393/Dinahsmum/DSC01379.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v393/Dinahsmum/DSC01382.jpg

Kazz
14-05-2006, 12:56 PM
That looks lovely, can I ask how long you've been growing that I did consider a wisteria, but didn't get one for some reason I can't even recall now.

dinahsmum
14-05-2006, 01:01 PM
The house is just under 5 years old. We've been here 4 years (moved during world cup 2002, on the day of the England - Argentine match).
The first owners planted it, so that would make it less then 5 years old.
I was saying to Yola in another thread that everyone seems to think they take years to get established (I did) but it's not so.
That one is not in an ideal situation - it faces broadly NE but gets glancing sun in the morning and that piece which scrambles over the 'pergola' gets a bit of evening sun too.

EmmaG
14-05-2006, 01:11 PM
VERY pretty DM, there was a lovely wisteria on a house across the road from us, but I think they have removed it ;(

Kazz
14-05-2006, 01:15 PM
I think thats why maybe I did not get one, because of the time scale involved, but I will reconsider I think.

Moli
14-05-2006, 01:48 PM
Thats a beauty DM! never had one of those, are they easy to grow??

Mags
14-05-2006, 01:49 PM
That is very pretty DM.... love the way it is beginning to trail around your house...

Naomi
14-05-2006, 02:19 PM
Very nice DM

dinahsmum
14-05-2006, 02:21 PM
Thats a beauty DM! never had one of those, are they easy to grow??
Plant 'em and watch 'em go Moli!
Little bit of trimming post-flowering, to keep them manageable, that's it. They love a south facing wall.
And they're so pretty!

yola
14-05-2006, 03:03 PM
That's stunning!!! And yes - I too was under the impression that they take forever to grow. That's quite a show for a 4 year old plant!!!

dinahsmum
14-05-2006, 04:10 PM
I grew up in a rural village but only the old cottages seemed to have wisteria :roll: .........think we've all been suckered into some kind of gardening 'urban myth' that wisteria takes for ever.

Moli
14-05-2006, 05:11 PM
I will definitely have a look for one of those....Got a wall that could do with something nice...:D

dinahsmum
14-05-2006, 05:31 PM
Found this article

Wisteria

Plant Characteristics
Wisteria is a member of the Pea family, Wisteria are vigorous, twining vines with wide landscape usage . Among their attributes are hardiness, vigor, longevity and the ability to climb high. The plant climbs by means of twining stems . Older, established plants may have a twisted, woody trunk several inches in diameter. Plants that have been grown from seed remain in a long juvenile stage and often do not bloom for 10 to 15 years or longer. Plants that are grafted, and plants grown from cuttings or layered from a flowering plant will usually begin flowering earlier than seedlings.
Two species of wisteria are typically grown in home gardens: Wisteria sinensis or Chinese wisteria, and Wisteria floribunda or Japanese wisteria. The Chinese wisteria is the more popular plant due to its flowering habit. It grows to a height of 25 feet or more and has flower clusters six inches to a foot in length, which open before the foliage has expanded. Individual flowers in the clusters open all at once for a very showy display. Flowers are violet-blue and slightly fragrant. Plants are most showy from early to mid-May in most seasons.

Site Requirements
In order to bloom well, wisteria require full sun (six or more hours of direct sun per day) and a deep, moderately fertile, moist soil that does not dry out excessively. They will adapt to most soils, though they prefer a neutral to slightly acid soil

Culture Soil Preparation
Good site preparation will help ensure plant establishment. Begin with a soil test to determine if the soil pH or the phosphorus level need correction. If so, make additions of materials as you are preparing the soil. Prepare soil in an area two to three feet in diameter and 18 to 24 inches deep. Mix into the native soil either peat moss, compost or well rotted manure, one-third by volume, to improve soil aeration and drainage.

Plant Support
Wisterias climb best on wires, trellises, arbors and pergolas. They can be grown on solid, vertical surfaces if proper supports are provided, such as rows of wire attached four to six inches from the wall. Use sturdy, durable materials such as galvanized wire, tubing or wood. Copper or aluminum wire or tubing are preferred over other metals since these do not rust. Use pressure-treated wood for arbors and pergolas. However, do not plant wisteria where the stems can invade and clog building gutters. Wisteria can also be grown as a single trunk standard or a tree-form. To accomplish this, the plant must be staked in an upright position. When it has reached four to five feet in height its top is cut off. Side shoots are allowed to develop on the upper part, but are continually removed from the lower stem. Side shoots are pruned each winter to six inches to a foot in length until the top is as large as desired. Future pruning consists of cutting summer shoots to the sixth or seventh leaf as soon as it expands and of cutting off secondary shoots that develop just beyond the first or second leaf. In winter, these secondary shoots are cut back to within an inch of their base. Living trees are often used as support but this must be done carefully. Trees less than ten inches in diameter can be quickly killed by girdling of the twining wisteria stem. Larger trees can also be damaged. If trees are used they should be inspected every several years to prevent girdling. If a tree is being girdled, the wisteria can be cut back to the soil line and allowed to grow back. The old girdling stem must be physically removed from the tree to avoid future damage.
Planting and Establishing
Once the soil is prepared and the support system is in place, the vine can be planted. Place the root ball of the plant in the hole so it is no deeper than it originally grew in the nursery. If your wisteria is grafted, set it so the graft union is slightly below the soil surface. Fill in the hole with the prepared soil mix and firm it around the root ball. Water well after planting, soaking the entire area. New plants will require an inch of water per week applied either through irrigation or as rainfall. Young plants should be fertilized annually until they fill the allotted space. Do not expect young vines to bloom since vegetative growth is being encouraged. Once the plant is established and has filled the allotted space, do not fertilize unless shoot and foliage growth and color is not good. Water only if foliage wilts as it might during drought conditions. Both of these practices stimulate vegetative growth and limit flower production.

Pruning Vines
Some annual pruning is required to maintain plant quality; it is not advisable to allow the vine to grow randomly and take over surrounding plants and structures. Pruning will help reduce the vigor of the vine and promote flowering.

Training New Vines
To train plants on a wire trellis or an arbor, select a vigorous, upright stem to serve as the main leader and attach this to the support. Remove other side shoots. As the main leader grows, it will develop side branches that will then produce more shoots and the flower buds. Continue to train the main leader upward and the new side branches as needed to form a framework to fit the allotted space (allow about 18 inches between side branches). Pinch off the main leader when it reaches the desired height.
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/images/1246_1.jpgEstablish the Main Framework
Train the main leader to the upper part of the support system and cut it off when it reaches the desired height. Train main side branches as needed so they are spaced about 18 inches apart.

Summer Pruning
Allow only one strong leader to develop from the end of each main framework branch without pruning it and stretch and attach this shoot along the support. Cut off the ends of all new side shoots just beyond the sixth or seventh leaf as soon as that leaf develops. New shoots will form as a result of these cuts. As they do, cut them back as soon as only one or two leaves develop.
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/images/1246_2.jpgEarly Pruning - Winter
Cut back unpruned leader shoots (from the previous summer) to one-half to two-thirds their length and cut side shoots pruned the previous summer back to only one or two inches in length.

Late Winter Pruning
Cut unpruned leader shoots back to one-half or two-thirds their length. Cut side shoots pruned the previous summer back to only one to two inches from their base for short flowering spurs.
This method of pruning allows permanent framework branches to extend each year by half the annual growth and side shoots to become short flowering spurs.

Maintenance Pruning
Once the vine has been trained into the allotted space, follow summer pruning practices as outlined above. In winter, prune leader shoots back to only four or five buds. Remove any suckers that appear at the base of the plant.
http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/images/1246_3.jpgMaintenance Pruning
Once the vine fills the alloted space, follow summer pruning practices. In winter, prune leader shoots back to only four or five buds. Remove any suckers that appear at the base of the plant.

Pruning Neglected Vines
In winter, prune away all but a framework of branches. Shorten these drastically, removing crowded and poorly spaced branches. Then follow pruning and training as described above for a new vine. Hopefully, the plant will bloom within two or three years.

Root Pruning
Root pruning is sometimes done in late fall to stimulate young plants to bloom or to restore blooming on older plants. It serves to check top growth and favor flower production and must be combined with summer pruning to be effective. Use a spade to cut vertically into the soil (about 18 inches deep) and about four feet from the main trunk, all around the vine.

Failure to Bloom
The biggest frustration gardeners face when growing wisteria is that plants have a longer than average juvenile period and sometimes fail to bloom as expected. Start with grafted plants or those produced from cuttings rather than those grown from seed. A plant will also fail to bloom if: it does not receive full sunlight; there is excessive vegetative growth that may have been stimulated by excess nitrogen fertilizer; it is pruned heavily in winter and spring, which encourages vigorous, vegetative growth; and/or it is pruned improperly. Also, in severe winters, flower buds may be injured or killed. The following practices may help induce non-blooming vines to flower: a heavy application of superphosphate (0-20-0) in early spring (3#-5# per 100 square feet) severe pruning of new growth in late spring or early summer root pruning in late fall

Transplanting
Wisterias do not transplant well and usually suffer a severe setback if moved. Large specimens sometimes do not recover.

Other Problems
Wisteria may be attacked by insects or plant disease, though neither is especially common. Should plants show symptoms of insect or disease damage, check with your local Extension office for diagnosis and management ideas.

Establish The Main Framework
Train the main leader to the upper part of the support system and cut it off when it reaches the desired height. Train main side branches as needed so they are spaced about 18 inches apart.

Maintenance Pruning
Once the vine fills the allotted space, follow summer pruning practices. In winter, prune leader shoots back to only four or five buds. Remove any suckers that appear at the base of the plant.

Early Pruning-Winter
Cut back unpruned leader shoots (from the previous summer) to one-half to two-thirds their length and cut side shoots pruned the previous summer back to only one or two inches in length.

Moli
14-05-2006, 05:44 PM
Thanks for the info DM, have saved it....The only probem I may have is not enough sunshine!

dinahsmum
18-05-2006, 03:21 PM
Today's pics - think it's at its best now. See the £675k house in the background? - it's still on the market - there's a suprise! :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v393/Dinahsmum/DSC01392.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v393/Dinahsmum/DSC01391.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v393/Dinahsmum/DSC01390.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v393/Dinahsmum/DSC01393.jpg

Hreow
18-05-2006, 03:39 PM
Nice lilac froth! You'll have to set a tea-table permanently under the horizontal trellice on the right, when you have encouraged it to grow all over there. Just too good a place to keep cars or anything else. :-)

EmmaG
18-05-2006, 03:40 PM
Very pretty DM, I just love seeing Wisteria :)

Mags
18-05-2006, 03:50 PM
It looks very pretty DM.......

Fran
18-05-2006, 06:12 PM
It's very very pretty DM!

dinahsmum
20-05-2006, 09:04 AM
Much of it is now in tatters in the gutter! :( What awful weather we have had.
I'm glad I took the pics when I did.

Kazz
20-05-2006, 04:24 PM
Thats a shame DM this weatehr is terrible. :(